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Rome, Mont Saint Michel, Chenonceau, et d’autres voyages…

Photo from my trip to Paris.

Photo from my trip to Paris.

This blog post is going to be a little different from my first few. As I’m looking over photos of the past month, I’m overwhelmingly thankful for the opportunities I’ve had and the people I’ve shared them with. I’ve been caught in very uncomfortable situations and some days have been better than others, but I’m learning that each morning is a fresh start. All in all, these past few weeks have been some of the greatest in my life. With all that said, I have quite a bit to catch you up on!

In July I spent a week in Rome with my friend Dana, toured more chateaus, revisited the town where I spent my childhood summers, and moved apartments with my host family. You might remember that, in my very first blog post, I made a commitment to make the most of my time in France.

“As this is my first blog post, I’d like to list a few goals. My hope is to read back through these posts at the end of the summer and cross each off. First, to fully immerse myself in the French language by starting conversations on food, the weather, fuzz on the rug, etc. Second, to travel as much as possible. Third, to try all things unfamiliar and terrifying. All of this is ways out of my comfort zone, but that’s a great place to be.”

With eight days left of my study abroad (single digits!), I’m happy to say that each of these goals has several proud checkmarks. The first of these stories begins a few weekends ago when my study abroad group took a day trip to Paris.

Part One: Paris

Photo in front of Notre Dame.

Study abroad family in front of Notre Dame.

We were able to tour Notre Dame, then spent the afternoon wandering around Paris in search of postcards. Instead, we found Shakespeare & Company, somewhere in the 5th arrondissement. The current building, which is a regular bookstore, second-hand bookstore, and reading library, pays homage to the original Shakespeare & Company. This was opened by Sylvia Beach in 1919 and closed at the German occupation of France during World War II. Many established writers, such as F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, and James Joyce, would pay visit. I wandered upstairs past the regular bookstore into the library, whose walls were stacked with dust coated jackets. We found a sleepy grey cat curled on the sofa of a back room, as well as a nook filled with poems, photographs, and prayers.

Shakira and our new friend.

Shakira and our new purrfect friend.

Lilly in the library.

Lilly in the library.

Photos, poems, secrets, prayers, and letters.

Photos, poems, secrets, prayers, and letters.

After selecting a few postcards, we walked to the Musée d’Orsay to visit a few staple pieces of art from Monet. We, of course, had to follow this with a trip to l’Arc de Triomphe and some photos near the Eiffel Tower. I’ve visited Paris a few times with family, but it was very different experience to wander through the streets with friends.

Walking to L'Arc de Triomphe, we passed a rap concert along the way.

Walking to L’Arc de Triomphe, we passed a rap concert along the way.

L'Arc de Triomphe.

L’Arc de Triomphe.

A beautiful view.

A beautiful view.

Part Two: Rome

In the first or second week of the summer, one of the students in my study abroad group mentioned she was going to Rome for break week and told me I was welcome to join. Dana, who is incredibly sweet and has a superpower of navigation, I kid you not, also had family friends in Bordeaux with whom we stayed the neighboring weekends. Both families were extremely kind and welcoming. As for Rome, it was stunning.

Sunset over Roman waters.

Sunset over Roman waters.

Dana walking through Villa Borghese gardens.

Dana walking through Villa Borghese gardens.

Bridge of Castel Sant'Angelo.

Bridge of Castel Sant’Angelo.

We were able to tour some beautiful landmarks, such as the Colosseum, the Forums, Castel Sant’Angelo, and Vatican City. You could see, smell, and hear the city’s history beneath the steps of tourists, across piazzas leading into monstrous cathedrals, and through traditional dishes wafting from outdoor restaurants. We wandered through the beautifully lit streets filling up on pasta and gelato. My updates back home consisted solely of food photos for five days straight. The carbonara below was also my phone screen for the following two weeks.

IMG_8559 IMG_8624

IMG_8560 IMG_8640 

This was my first time in a country in which I had absolutely no prior knowledge of the language. One evening, Dana and I went to eat at this beautiful outdoor restaurant. When it was time to ask for the check, I pulled out my phone and typed something along the lines of “May we have the check please?” into Google Translate. The app came back with a phrase asking for the “bolletta”. When the waiter returned, I politely asked for the bolletta with a smile. He stared back blankly. Thinking he hadn’t quite heard me, I leaned in closer and asked a bit louder. This time he laughed, spoke quickly in Italian, and walked away. Later I realized that although I’d technically asked for the “bill”, bolletta typically refers to utility payments, in order words, I may as well have asked for the cable bill.

A few more photos…

Dana walking through the streets.

Exploring Rome.

Moving into the apartment with the purple flowers.

Moving into the apartment with the purple flowers.

We took a wrong turn and ended up at the river, no complaints.

We took a wrong turn and ended up at the river, no complaints.

Part Three: July 4th vs. July 14th

Fourth of July.

Fourth of July.

The weekend of the 4th, Andrew visited Tours! Earlier in the week, Kelsey had introduced me to this beautiful garden called Jardin des Prébendes d’Oé. We spent saturday morning in the garden, which is filled with beautiful flower beds, bridges over ponds, and statues of Tourangeux writers. Throughout this trip I’ve realized I’m slowly turning into my mom who can’t pass flowers without stopping to snap a photo.

Purple flowers are the prettiest.

Purple flowers are the prettiest.

Beautiful views.

Beautiful views.

Love the vibrancy of these colors.

Love the vibrancy of these colors.

Ten days later was the French national holiday. France celebrates la Fête Nationale on July 14th to commemorate the storming of the Bastille, which took place two days into the French revolution of 1789. Although France is quite patriotic in the sense that there is great pride in French culture, there isn’t quite the same pride in the government or nationality (think of the U.S.A. chant). For example, in the States, Independence Day is spent at barbecues with friends and family, lighting sparkles, wearing the national colors, and watching fireworks. In France, however, most families spend the day resting at home, followed by drinks and a fireworks show. The 14th, I watched fireworks at la Guinguette with friends, and little to no one was wearing blue, white, or red. The Tours fireworks were absolutely beautiful! Launched off of l’isle Simon, they seemed to be exploding over our heads, and the island glowed red as each rocket shot off.

Fireworks at la Guinguette.

Fireworks at la Guinguette.

Part Four: Château de Chenonceau

If you’ve visited my “About” page, you may have noticed a photograph of my mom and me circa 1997 walking through the courtyard of a beautiful chateau. Last Wednesday, my study abroad group visited that very same chateau, Chenonceau. Spanning the river Cher, the castle passed through many different families over the course of 200 years before being gifted to Diane de Poitiers by King Henry II in 1547. Diane, the king’s mistress, oversaw the addition of several beautiful gardens and orchards the chateau is known for today. With King Henry II’s death in 1559, Catherine de’Medici, his wife, forced Diane out of the chateau in exchange for Château Chaumont. This would make a great plot line for a CW show.

Revisiting Chenonceau 18 years later.

Revisiting Chenonceau 18 years later.

Sarah, Jared, Alissa, and I in the Chenonceau gardens.

Sarah, Jared, Alissa, and I in the Chenonceau gardens.

After touring the chateau, we went on a boat ride down the Cher. The architecture of the chateau’s base is truly stunning. The captain explained that, in years of heavy rain, water has risen to the lowest windows (see photo below).

Château de Chenonceau.

Château de Chenonceau.

Banks of the Cher.

Banks of the Cher.

Last but not least, a family photo of my study abroad group…

Go green, go white.

Go green, go white.

Part Five: Mont Saint Michel and Saint Malo

Between the ages of ten and twelve, I would spend one month each summer with my mom’s family in Saint Malo, France. Mornings were spent playing tennis, and afternoons sailing Catamarans in the strong-willed and beautiful ocean. I knew from the start of the program that our excursion to Mont Saint Michel/Saint Malo would be one of my favorites. The day did prove to be… memorable. We left at 7am Saturday morning, and after four hours on a bus, motion sickness was in full swing. Determined the make the most of the day, I carried on with the group and was met with a breathtaking view.

The Mont Saint Michel.

Walking towards the Mont Saint Michel.

We wandered up through the crowded streets filled with sandwicheries and postcard stands. At the base of the cathedral, we met one of the professors from l’Institut de Touraine and began our tour. About an hour in, I started to feel light-headed and nauseous. I rushed through the rest of the guided tour, walked down the beach to the bus stop, and rode back to parking where I lay down behind a wall. Just a disclaimer to anyone visiting France, this is not exactly an acceptable social norm. It becomes even more awkward when a family sits on the wall you’re laying behind, and look on in shock when you stand up. Thankfully, I started to feel much better.

We had about another hour of driving before arriving in Saint Malo. This walled city is a very important port of the English Channel, and in past times was well known for piracy. A song I learned in Saint Malo has a verse that goes:

Je pars pour de longs mois en laissant Margot.
Hisse et ho, Santiano!
D´y penser j´avais le cœur gros
En doublant les feux de Saint-Malo.

 The lyrics roughly translate to:

I go [sail] for months leaving Margot.
Heave and ho, Santiano!
Thinking of her brings me a heavy heart
When doubling the lights of Saint-Malo.

Poor Margot. The rich culture of maritime is still present in the city today in fresh seafood markets, a beautiful harbor, and common Malouins love for the sea. Alecia, Tara, Elizabeth, Stephanie and I walked through town before settling on a quaint créperie. We then walked along the high stone wall of the city which overlooked the beaches and harbor. A beautiful end to the day.

Revisiting Saint Malo eight years later.

Revisiting Saint Malo eight years later.

The beautiful city.

Afternoon spent walking along the city.

Part Six: Château d’Amboise and Château de Close Lucé

A few days ago we had our last excursion, it’s wild how quickly my time in Tours is coming to a close. My study abroad group visited two chateaus: Amboise and Close Lucé. To be completely honest, all that I retained from our trip to Amboise was that King Charles VIII died at the château in 1498 after knocking his head against the door mantel. The view was quite beautiful.

Château d'Amboise.

View from a balcony of Château d’Amboise.

I was a little familiar with Close Lucé, the residence of Leonardo da Vinci for his last four years, 1516-1519. In 1516, King Francis I invited Da Vinci to Amboise and provided him with a generous donation to continue his work. It was in Da Vinci’s best interest to accept the offer, as he had no steady income at the time and was facing socio-political backlash.  The two became very close, and it is said that Da Vinci died in Francis’ arms. The château is now a museum depicting Da Vinci’s life at Close Lucé, and the gardens filled with copies of his inventions.

Gardens of Close Lucé.

Gardens of Close Lucé.

Gardens of Close Lucé.

Flower beds.

This past month has truly been the adventure of a life time, as cliché as it may be. Though I’m looking forward to my last week in Tours, followed by an additional week of traveling, I’m also excited to soon be back on American soil and see my friends and family. With that said, only time will tell what the next two weeks bring.

À bientôt, Marie-Louise

Visites des châteaux.

This past week has been challenging in the greatest ways. I’m learning what it means to find happiness in Tours: through family culture, time spent outdoors, and locals’ love of cooking. Here, happiness is not complete unless it’s shared over a glass of wine with friends. The communal aspect of French life is rich and deeply rooted in tradition. I’m beginning to see remarkable differences between my life here and back in the U.S., and my hope is to determine what I want to be true of my life when my time in Tours is finished, the type of person I want to be.

Last Wednesday, we visited two beautiful chateaus: Chateau de Langeais and Chateau de Villandry. The first, Langeais, overlooked stunning scenery of the village, and the chateau was adorned in traditional tapestries. Florence, the professor for the other section of MSU students, gave a descriptive tour of each room. It was sobering to imagine the life of servants while the king was at stay in the chateau.

The view from château de Langeais.

The view from château de Langeais.

A tapestry hanging in one of the châteaux rooms. The bright colors served to seemingly give warmth on cold winter days.

A tapestry hanging in one of the château rooms. The bright colors served to seemingly give warmth on cold winter days.

Sarah in front of the Langeais gardens.

Sarah in front of the Langeais gardens.

The next chateau, Villandry, was by far my favorite visit of this trip. If it’s not clear from my choice of photos, I love flowers, and the gardens of Villandry were filled with red, pink, white, and yellow roses. Florence led us through the castle to a high ledge overlooking the scenic gardens, as well as the nearby woods where the king enjoyed aller à la chasse. We spent the next few hours wandering through the grounds, through orange trees, and circling back up to the highest tour of the chateau.

Overview of the garden.

Overview of the garden.

Beautiful flowers.

Beautiful flowers.

A wall of dark pink roses.

A wall of dark pink roses.

I’ll be writing soon again to catch up on a few more trips from this past week. For now,

A bientôt, Marie-Louise

Cours de cuisine et visite des jardins.

To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted. – Bill Bryson

The initial edge of the city has softened over this past week. The streets, though just as beautiful, are less daunting, and I’m able navigate without holding out a map (yes, I was that tourist). While the first few days were filled from morning to midnight soaking in the beautiful city, now that classes are in sessions, they’ve slowed to comfortable rhythm. I’m excited for the pace to pick up again with a few trips planned in the next week.

Last Thursday, we had an amazing cooking class with a French chef. Tours takes extreme pride in fresh produce; walking through a market last week I was overwhelmed by the scent of peaches shelves away. For our class, we made a pastry layered with mustard, zucchini and red pepper, a slice of salmon, and puffs of goat cheese. This was followed by pork tenderloin skewers, stacked with dried figs and apricots, served with a rich mushroom risotto. Oh my goodness, delicious!

Saturday, we walked to the Botanic Gardens for the afternoon. The flowerbeds are gorgeous, and there were a few surprise exhibits around the park. I’ll let the photos below explain themselves.

   

A tortoise taking a casual stroll.

A tortoise taking a casual stroll.

Chickens gathered in the shade.

Chickens gathered in the shade.

Wallabies resting out of the sun.

Wallabies resting out of the sun.

A bientôt, Marie-Louise

La vie à Tours.

I arrived in Tours three days ago, yet it feels as though three weeks could have passed. My study abroad group is incredible. These students are kind, gracious, and going through culture shock alongside them is absolutely hysterical. I’ve already bragged about them in my previous post, but I can’t put into words how lucky I feel to have these next two months.

With a few days behind me I’m gaining a better sense of life in Tours. Each morning I walk to l’Institut and meet up with the other students of my section before class begins. For the June courses we’ve split into two sections of MSU students and in July will take courses with other university students at l’Institut. My professor for this term, Olivier, is very animated and goes off on passionate tangents; yesterday he lectured for 20 minutes on the French baguette. I’m planning on writing a separate post on the content of this course, so I’ll stop here for now.

After class, I’ve had the chance to explore more restaurants and cafés of the city in the afternoons. Some soon to be regulars are a pizzeria with an Irish waiter who teased us incessantly, a brasserie near la Gare, and an ice cream store tucked in the back of Place Plume. Today I picnicked with Lilly, Joy, and Dana at l’île Simon after taking a boat ride through the Loire. Music drifted over the water from la Guinguette as we tasted jambon fumée avec melon and local cheese with complementary wines.

Our picnic overlooking Tours.

Our picnic overlooking Tours.

The nightlife in Tours is lively and culturally rich. A local favorite is la Guinguette, a café sitting along the Loire. Monday, we sat along the boardwalk and watched the sunset across the river. Last night was the Café Des Langues, a club of sorts hosted by l’Institut where we met students from other universities to practice speaking French. Local artists play music throughout the night, and the café is beautiful lit by strands of lights hanging from willow trees.

La Guinguette at sunset.

La Guinguette at sunset.

It’s at the same time exciting and unbelievable that I have another seven and a half weeks in France. In these next few days I have many more picnics, a cooking class, and possibly a trip to the south of France. For now, I should catch some sleep.

A bientôt, Marie-Louise

Les premiers jours.

These past 48 hours have been nerve-wracking, exhausting, and all in all wonderful. I am increasingly thankful for the beautiful summer ahead, and for the group of students in this study abroad program. Ironically, I haven’t yet met a French major. We come from all over Michigan State: education,  journalism, and a few of the sciences. I can tell that sharing this summer with friends from all different backgrounds will bring a deep richness to an already incredible experience.

Yesterday, after flights from Windsor to Toronto, Toronto to CDG, and a bus ride to Tours, I was greeted by my host mom in front of la Basilique de Saint Martin. She very sweetly took me for a tour of Tours (pun absolutely intended). The city is lovely. It’s filled with gardens, stunning cathedrals, and boutiques tucked into the historic streets; I was enchanted. I further explored Tours with some of the other students as we completed a scavenger hunt of the well-known landmarks. My favorite by far was a garden wrapped around le musée des Beaux-Arts (pardon my Franglais). Here are some photos below; my iPhone camera doesn’t bring it justice.

A stone wall overgrown with roses and ivy.

A stone wall overgrown with roses.

View of le musée des Beaux-Arts.

View of le musée des Beaux-Arts.

A statue in the garden.

A statue in the garden.

This morning we had a brief orientation of our June courses, which will be 1) overview of Franco-American relations 2) exploration of historical monuments, namely chateaus. There are fourteen students to one professor in FRN491, which runs two hours each morning. Afternoons are free for picnics, kayaking, promenades, and bike rides through the Loire Valley.

As this is my first blog post, I’d like to list a few goals. My hope is to read back through these posts at the end of the summer and cross each off. First, to fully immerse myself in the French language by starting conversations on food, the weather, fuzz on the rug, etc. Second, to travel as much as possible. Third, to try all things unfamiliar and terrifying. All of this is ways out of my comfort zone, but that’s a great place to be.

A bientôt, Marie-Louise